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Food & Wine Pairing
How Food and Wine Dance Together
Wine people love to throw around pairing “rules” like they’re handing out commandments from a mountaintop. Red wine with meat. White wine with fish. Never pair wine with artichokes. Most of it is oversimplified nonsense.
The truth is more interesting. Food and wine interact on a molecular level, and understanding a few basic principles will do more for your pairing success than memorizing a hundred rules. Let’s break down what’s actually happening in your mouth.
WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) Food Categories
Sweet Foods
How it affects wine perception:
- Reduces perception of sweetness, fruitiness, and body in the wine
- Increases perception of bitterness, acidity, tannin, and alcohol burn
Why this happens: Your palate adjusts to the sweetness in the food, making the wine taste less sweet by comparison and emphasizing its harsher elements.
Pairing Strategy:
- Choose wines sweeter than the food (or at least as sweet)
- Select wines with lower tannins (avoid big dry reds with desserts)
- Off-dry to sweet wines work best
- Lower alcohol helps (high alcohol = more burn)
Example: Chocolate cake with a dry red = the wine tastes bitter and harsh. Chocolate cake with Port or late harvest Riesling = harmony.
Salty Foods
How it affects wine perception:
- Reduces perception of bitterness, acidity, and tannin harshness
- Increases perception of body, sweetness, and fruitiness
- Makes wines taste smoother and rounder
Why this happens: Salt is a flavor enhancer and softens harsh elements while amplifying pleasant ones.
Pairing Strategy:
- Salt is wine-friendly – works with almost everything!
- Great opportunity to serve high-tannin reds (salt softens them)
- High-acid wines become more approachable
- Even slightly flawed wines can taste better
Example: Parmesan cheese makes Chianti taste fruitier and less harsh. Salted nuts make a tannic Cabernet smoother.
Acidic Foods
How it affects wine perception:
- Reduces perception of acidity in wine
- Increases perception of sweetness, fruitiness, and body
- Makes wines taste softer and rounder
Why this happens: The acid in food neutralizes the acid in wine, letting other characteristics shine.
Pairing Strategy:
- Wine must be as acidic or more acidic than the food
- High-acid wines are essential
- If wine isn’t acidic enough, it tastes flat and unbalanced
Example: Tomato sauce (acidic) with low-acid wine = wine tastes dull and lifeless. Tomato sauce with Chianti (high acid) = wine stays bright and lively.
Tomato sauce flavor profile:
- Umami
- Sweetness
- Acidity
Fatty/Oily Foods
How it affects wine perception:
- Coats the palate with richness
- Reduces perception of acidity and tannin
- Makes lighter wines seem washed out
Why this happens: Fat creates a film on your palate that mutes wine’s structure.
Pairing Strategy:
- Need high-acid wines to cut through fat (acts as palate cleanser)
- Slightly Tannic reds work with fatty red meats
- tannin binds to protein and fat
- Removes the “texture” of the tannin but not the bitterness (see Salty Foods)
- Sparkling wines excellent (bubbles + acid = cuts through oil)
- Avoid low-acid wines (they disappear)
Example: Salmon (fatty fish) with high-acid Champagne or Chablis = refreshing. Fried chicken with sparkling wine = the bubbles cut through the grease beautifully.
Umami Foods
How it affects wine perception:
- Reduces perception of fruitiness and sweetness
- Increases perception of bitterness, acidity, and alcohol burn
- Makes wines taste harsher and less pleasant
Why this happens: Umami (savory, meaty taste) clashes with wine structure, especially tannins.
Pairing Strategy:
- Most challenging food element for wine
- Choose low-tannin wines (tannin + umami = metallic, bitter)
- Fruity wines with less acidity work best
- Consider wines with umami characteristics (aged wines, sur lie aging, oxidative styles)
- White wines often better than reds
Example: Mushroom risotto (high umami) with tannic Cabernet = metallic, unpleasant. Same dish with Pinot Noir or aged white Burgundy = much better harmony.
Bitter Foods
How it affects wine perception:
- Increases perception of bitterness in wine
- Creates compounding bitterness (bitter + bitter = too bitter)
Why this happens: Bitter flavors reinforce each other rather than balance.
Pairing Strategy:
- Choose low-tannin wines (tannin = bitter)
- White wines usually better than reds
- Keep it simple – don’t overthink it
- Sometimes slight sweetness in wine helps
Example: Arugula salad (bitter greens) with tannic red = overwhelmingly bitter. Same salad with unoaked white or rosé = pleasant.
Spicy/Hot Foods ( Capsaicin)
How it affects wine perception:
- Increases perception of alcohol burn, bitterness, and acidity
- Reduces perception of body, sweetness, and fruitiness
- Makes wine taste harsher and “hotter”
Why this happens: Capsaicin (chili heat) + alcohol = amplified burning sensation. High tannins also become more astringent.
Pairing Strategy:
- Choose lower alcohol wines (avoid adding fuel to fire)
- Slightly sweet or off-dry wines (sugar balances heat)
- Fruity, low-tannin wines work best
- Avoid high-tannin reds and high-alcohol wines
- Or embrace the burn! (some people like it)
Example: Thai curry with high-alcohol Zinfandel = painful heat. Thai curry with off-dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer = heat is balanced and manageable.
Tannin, Acidity, Alcohol, Fruit and your Palate
Tannin: The Troublemaker with Two Faces
Tannin gets blamed for a lot, but most people don’t realize it creates two distinct sensations: bitterness (a taste detected by receptors on your tongue) and astringency (a tactile feeling of dryness and puckering). They’re different, and they respond to different things.
What’s happening: Tannins are polyphenols, highly reactive compounds found in grape skins, seeds, and oak. When you sip a tannic wine, those tannins bind to proline-rich proteins (PRPs) in your saliva through two primary mechanisms: hydrophobic interactions (where the aromatic ring of the tannin interacts with the pyrrolidine ring of proline amino acids) and hydrogen bonding (where tannin hydroxyl groups bond with the amide carbonyl group of the protein backbone). These interactions create insoluble complexes that strip away the lubricating film in your mouth, causing that dry, puckering sensation we call astringency. The bitterness you taste comes from the tannins interacting with bitter taste receptors (TAS2Rs) on your tongue. Same compound, two different experiences.
How food changes it: Protein is tannin’s best friend. When you eat a bite of steak or a chunk of aged cheese, dietary proteins provide alternative binding sites for tannins. The tannins latch onto the food proteins instead of your salivary proteins, and suddenly that aggressive Sagrantino becomes velvety and approachable. This is why the classic pairing of tannic red wine with red meat works so beautifully. It’s not tradition for tradition’s sake. It’s chemistry.
Fat plays a similar role. It coats your mouth and intercepts tannins before they can strip away your saliva. A drizzle of olive oil, a rich cheese, or a well-marbled cut of beef all soften the tannic blow.
Salt is more complex. Research shows that sodium ions suppress the perception of bitterness through both peripheral and central mechanisms. At the peripheral level, sodium can directly inhibit certain bitter taste receptors (particularly TAS2R16), reducing the bitter signal before it reaches your brain. Additionally, sodium suppresses bitter compounds like quinine, caffeine, magnesium sulfate, and urea to varying degrees. A moderate amount of salt makes a tannic wine taste smoother and more balanced.
But here’s where it gets nuanced: salt affects bitterness and astringency differently. While salt suppresses the bitter taste component of tannins, its effect on astringency (the tactile drying sensation) depends on concentration. Moderate salt enhances saliva production and can temporarily mitigate dryness. But heavy salt concentration can actually amplify the astringent sensation, turning a pleasantly dry wine into something harsh. Balance is everything.
Why the science matters: Understanding that bitterness and astringency are separate sensations helps explain why the same wine can taste different to different people, and why certain foods moderate one sensation but not the other. A salty bite of prosciutto may make the wine taste less bitter while the fat and protein handle the astringency. A perfectly composed dish attacks tannin from multiple angles.
References: Breslin, P.A.S. & Beauchamp, G.K. (1995). Suppression of bitterness by sodium: variation among bitter taste stimuli. Chemical Senses, 20(6), 609-623.
Charlton, A.J., et al. (2002). Polyphenol/peptide binding and precipitation. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 50(6), 1593-1601.
Keast, R.S., Canty, T.M. & Breslin, P.A. (2004). The influence of sodium salts on binary mixtures of bitter-tasting compounds. Chemical Senses, 29(5), 431-439.
Witt, M. & Meyerhof, W. (2024). Influence of Sodium Chloride on Human Bitter Taste Receptor Responses. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 72(10), 5231-5240.
Beauchamp, G.K. (2001). Suppression of Bitterness Using Sodium Salts. Chemosensory Perception.
Acidity: The Balancing Act
Acidity in wine creates that bright, mouthwatering sensation that makes you want to take another sip. It’s also one of the most important factors in food pairing because acidity in food and acidity in wine have a direct, perceptual relationship.
What’s happening: Your perception of acidity is relative. When you eat something acidic (a squeeze of lemon, a tomato-based sauce, a vinaigrette), your palate recalibrates. The sour taste receptors on your tongue adapt to the acidic environment. When you then taste wine, that wine’s acidity seems lower by comparison.
How food changes it: Here’s the practical principle: the wine should be at least as acidic as the food. A high-acid dish paired with a low-acid wine makes the wine taste flat, flabby, and dull. A squeeze of lemon on fish demands a crisp Verdicchio, not a fat, oaky Chardonnay.
This is why Italian wines, with their naturally high acidity, pair so effortlessly with Italian food. Tomatoes are acidic. Vinegar-based dressings are acidic. Even the squeeze of lemon that finishes so many Italian dishes adds acidity. The wines evolved alongside the cuisine.
Lower pH (higher acidity) also intensifies the perception of astringency from tannins. This is why a tannic red wine can taste even more aggressive alongside a high-acid dish without the buffer of protein or fat.
References: Jackson, R.S. (2017). Wine Tasting: A Professional Handbook. Academic Press.
Paulsen, M.T., Rognså, G.H. & Hersleth, M. (2015). Consumer perception of food-wine pairing. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science, 2(2), 83-92.
Alcohol: The Heat Factor
Alcohol contributes to the body and texture of wine, but it also creates a warming, sometimes burning sensation, especially at higher levels. This interacts with food in ways that can help or hurt a pairing.
What’s happening: Ethanol is perceived as “hot” because it activates the same receptors (TRPV1) that respond to capsaicin in chili peppers. Higher alcohol wines feel warmer and fuller in the mouth. This is why a 15% alcohol Sagrantino feels more substantial than a 12% Trebbiano.
How food changes it: Spicy food and high-alcohol wine is a dangerous combination. The alcohol amplifies the heat from capsaicin, and the spice amplifies the burn from alcohol. It’s a feedback loop that can leave your mouth on fire and the wine tasting harsh and hot. If you’re eating spicy food, reach for lower-alcohol wines, or wines with a touch of sweetness to cool things down.
On the positive side, moderate ethanol levels (10-20%) can actually disrupt the hydrophobic interactions between tannins and salivary proteins, decreasing the sensation of astringency. This is one reason why higher-alcohol reds can sometimes feel smoother despite significant tannin levels.
Rich, fatty foods also balance alcohol’s heat. The fat coats your palate and tempers the warming sensation, which is why a full-bodied, high-alcohol red can work beautifully with a rich braise or fatty cut of beef.
References: Nolden, A.A. & Hayes, J.E. (2015). Perceptual qualities of ethanol depend on concentration, and variation in these percepts associates with drinking frequency. Chemosensory Perception, 8(1), 15-27.
Running, C.A. & Hayes, J.E. (2016). Biological variability in sensory receptors as a determinant of flavor perception. Current Opinion in Food Science, 8, 1-6.
Sweet and Fruit: Not the Same Thing
People often confuse sweetness (residual sugar in wine) with fruitiness (aromatic compounds that remind us of fruit). A bone-dry wine can smell like a basket of ripe cherries without containing any sugar at all. Both sweetness and fruitiness interact with food, but in different ways.
What’s happening: Sweetness is a taste detected by receptors on your tongue responding to sugar molecules. Fruitiness is an aroma, perceived through your olfactory system when volatile compounds reach your nose (both orthonasally when you sniff and retronasally when you exhale while tasting). Your brain often conflates them because we associate fruity smells with sweet tastes from a lifetime of eating fruit.
How food changes it: Sweet food makes wine taste less sweet, more acidic, and more bitter. This is why dessert wines need to be sweeter than the dessert. A moderately sweet wine paired with a very sweet dish will taste thin and sour. Match sweetness levels, or let the wine be sweeter than the food.
Salt enhances the perception of fruitiness in wine. A salty bite of prosciutto can make a red wine’s fruit pop in a way it didn’t before. This is one reason why cured meats and wine are such a natural match. Research has also shown that at very low concentrations, sodium chloride can actually activate sweet taste receptors, adding another layer to salt’s ability to enhance positive flavor attributes.
Umami (the savory taste found in aged cheeses, cured meats, mushrooms, and tomatoes) can make wine taste more bitter and astringent. High-umami dishes often need wines with lower tannins or a touch of sweetness to compensate. This is why a Sagrantino Passito (sweet) can work beautifully with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano (umami bomb) in ways a dry Sagrantino might struggle.
References: Yasumatsu, K., et al. (2023). Chloride ions evoke taste sensations by binding to the extracellular ligand-binding domain of sweet/umami taste receptors. eLife, 12, e84291.
Spence, C. (2015). Multisensory flavor perception. Cell, 161(1), 24-35.
Your Palate Is Not My Palate
Here’s something the pairing “experts” rarely mention: what works for one person may not work for another, and it has nothing to do with sophistication or training. Your sensory system is wired differently than your neighbor’s.
The science of individual variation: Humans possess approximately 25 functional bitter taste receptor genes (TAS2Rs), and these genes are highly polymorphic, meaning different people carry different versions. The most studied is TAS2R38, which determines sensitivity to bitter compounds like phenylthiocarbamide (PTC) and 6-n-propylthiouracil (PROP).
Based on your TAS2R38 genotype, you fall somewhere on a spectrum:
- About 25% of people are “supertasters” (PAV/PAV genotype), experiencing bitter compounds tens to fifty times more intensely than non-tasters
- About 50% are “medium tasters” (PAV/AVI genotype)
- About 25% are “non-tasters” (AVI/AVI genotype)
This isn’t just academic. Research has directly linked TAS2R38 genotypes to wine perception. People with the “taster” variants perceive wine as significantly more bitter than those with “non-taster” variants. One study found that wine experts were overrepresented among medium and supertasters, suggesting that people who experience taste more intensely may be drawn to wine professionally.
But it goes beyond bitterness. Individuals with higher fungiform papillae density (the structures that house your taste buds) exhibit heightened sensitivity to multiple sensations, including sourness. Biological variability in sensory receptors is a significant determinant of how individuals perceive flavor intensity.
What this means for pairing: If you’re a supertaster, that tannic Sagrantino might genuinely taste more aggressive to you than it does to your dinner companion. You might need more protein or fat to moderate the tannins. If you’re a non-taster, you might wonder what all the fuss is about.
This doesn’t mean your ability to taste is “broken” or “unsophisticated.” It means your sensory and perceptual systems are wired differently. The pairing that creates harmony for your friend might create dissonance for you, and that’s perfectly normal.
The goal isn’t to find the “objectively correct” pairing. It’s to understand the principles well enough to adjust for your own perception.
References: Hayes, J.E. & Pickering, G.J. (2012). Wine expertise predicts taste phenotype. American Journal of Enology and Viticulture, 63(1), 80-84.
Fu, D., et al. (2019). Complex relationship between TAS2 receptor variations, bitterness perception, and alcohol consumption observed in a population of wine consumers. Food & Function, 10(3), 1643-1652.
Masi, C., et al. (2015). The role of fungiform papillae density in sweet taste perception. Journal of Food Science, 80(5), S1071-S1076.
Diószegi, J., Llanaj, E. & Ádány, R. (2019). Genetic Background of Taste Perception, Taste Preferences, and Its Nutritional Implications: A Systematic Review. Frontiers in Genetics, 10, 1272.
Bartoshuk, L.M., Duffy, V.B. & Miller, I.J. (1994). PTC/PROP tasting: anatomy, psychophysics, and sex effects. Physiology & Behavior, 56(6), 1165-1171.
The Bottom Line
Pairing wine with food isn’t about following rules. It’s about understanding how the components interact and trusting your own experience. Protein and fat tame tannins. Salt suppresses bitterness. Acidity needs to match or exceed acidity. Alcohol and spice fight each other. Sweetness competes with sweetness. And your genetic makeup influences how intensely you experience all of it.
The recipes and pairings that follow are suggestions based on what people in these Central Italian regions have been eating and drinking together for generations. They figured this stuff out long before anyone wrote a scientific paper about it. Use the science to understand why the pairings work, but trust the traditions.
And if something sounds good to you? Try it. Your palate is the final authority, and it’s the only one that matters at your table.
© Dennis Fraley / The Bottle Talk®. This content was developed for the American Wine Society National Tasting Project. Any use or reproduction outside of NTP participation requires written permission from the author.
Scoring the Food & Wine Pairings
(Work in Progress)
The Rubric
** A hint for future NTPs **
** We would also include an “instruction” piece for the one holding the tasting. Suggestions you should only try to do a few pairing categories to avoid confusion, palate fatigue, etc.
Part 1: Wine Alone (Baseline)
Score the wine by itself first (using AWS scoring)
Part 2: Food & Wine Pairing Evaluation
For each pairing, members rate on two dimensions:
- A) PAIRING HARMONY (How well they work together)
- 5 = Enhanced (Wine and food made each other better – 1+1=3)
- 4 = Complementary (Worked well together)
- 3 = Neutral (Neither helped nor hurt each other)
- 2 = Distracting (One overpowered the other or competed)
- 1 = Clashing (Unpleasant interaction, worse together)
- B) PERSONAL ENJOYMENT (How much you liked this combination)
- 5 = Loved it (Would seek this pairing out)
- 4 = Liked it (Would happily have again)
- 3 = Okay (Acceptable but wouldn’t seek out)
- 2 = Didn’t care for it (Wouldn’t choose again)
- 1 = Disliked it (Unpleasant experience)
Example: Salty food + tannic wine typically works (salt softens tannin). But a tannin-sensitive person might still score it:
- Harmony: 4 (I can tell it works)
- Enjoyment: 2 (But I still don’t like it)
This discrepancy = data gold!
Example of how it would look:
There are no wrong answers in this exercise. We’re exploring how different people experience the same wine and food combinations. Your palate is unique, and your preferences are valid. Some people are more sensitive to certain flavors – this doesn’t make you a better or worse taster, just different. This exercise helps you understand your own palate and how you experience wine.
Pre-Assessment Questions, myVinotype.com (to correlate later):
- Do you add salt to food before tasting? (Y/N)
- Do you prefer your coffee: Black / With cream / With sugar / Both
- Cilantro tastes like: Herb / Soap / No strong feeling
- Do you avoid bitter foods? (Y/N)
- Do you seek out spicy foods? (Y/N)
- MORE TO ADD HERE
Food & Wine Pairing Scoring Sheet
** A hint for future NTPs **
WINE #: _____ WINE NAME: _________________________________
MY SCORE FOR THIS WINE (tasted alone): _____ / 20
FOOD PAIRING CATEGORY: _______________ (Sweet/Salty/Acidic/Fatty/Umami/Bitter/Spicy)
SPECIFIC FOOD ITEM: _________________________________________________
How well did the wine and food work together?
5-Enhanced | 4-Complementary | 3-Neutral | 2-Distracting | 1-Clashing
Circle one: 1 2 3 4 5
How much did you personally enjoy this pairing?
5-Loved | 4-Liked | 3-Okay | 2-Didn’t care for | 1-Disliked
Circle one: 1 2 3 4 5
OPTIONAL: What changed about the wine with this food?
□ More bitter □ Less bitter
□ More acidic □ Less acidic
□ Fruitier □ Less fruity
□ Smoother □ Harsher
□ Sweeter □ Drier
□ More tannic □ Less tannic
□ Other: ___________________________________________
Additional Support Materials
** A hint for future NTPs **
- One-page instruction sheet for participants (what to do, how to use form)
- Chapter Chair guide (detailed above)
- Food category reference card (examples for each category)
- QR code/link to online form
Optional: Palate cleansing tips (water, plain bread, timing)
Digital Form
** A hint for future NTPs **
© Dennis Fraley / The Bottle Talk®. This content was developed for the American Wine Society National Tasting Project. Any use or reproduction outside of NTP participation requires written permission from the author.
Additional Food and Wine Pairing information
